The Radziwiłł Mausoleum
in Nesvizh.
Research

In 1732, Urszula Franciszka Wiśniowiecka Radziwiłł, a great poetess and playwright of Nesvizh, addressed her daughter Anna Maria with the following verse:

[…] when according to the world’s fashion
you’ll be dressed in an expensive dress
with expensive lace, remind yourself
that there will be only a bed sheet in your coffin.¹Pranciška Uršulė iš Kaributų-Višnioveckių Radvilienė, “Išganingi perspėjimai arba gyvenimo patarimai […] dukrai Onai Marijai 1732”, translated by Aida Ažubalytė, Trys baroko saulėlydžio literatai: Pranciška Uršulė Radvilienė, Konstancija Benislavska, Juozapas Baka: chrestomatija (series Iš senosios Lietuvos literatūros), prepared by Aida Ažubalytė, Brigita Speičytė, Giedrė Šmitienė, Vilnius: Vilniaus universiteto leidykla, 2003, p. 21.

When studying burial garments in 2016 and in 2017 of the diseased buried in the crypt underneath the Corpus Christi Church in Nesvizh, two trends were identified²Information and generalisations in the present text are presented on the basis of research material on 11 burials (sarcophagi) in the crypt of the Corpus Christi Church in Nesvizh conducted in 2016 and 2017. Sarcophagi No 1, 2, 3, 5, 6, 11, 14, 15, 17, 19, and 72 were studied. The numbering of the sarcophagi is hereinafter referred to in accordance with the Inventory carried out by the Department of Cultural Heritage (Lithuania) in 1999, see [Gintaras Kazlauskas, et al.], Kunigaikščių Radvilų mauzoliejaus inventorizacija: [the manuscript; preserved at the Department of Cultural Heritage under the Ministry of Culture (Lithuania)], 1999, p. [18] [the scheme].. Until the 1750s the deceased were usually buried dressed in a long shirt light in colour reaching the heels and in a cap, some were in footwear specially made for burial, and leather gloves light in colour as befitted the representatives of the nobility³Sarcophagi No 1, 2, 5, 14, 15, and 17.. This was the main burial garment set of that time. Those who died later were started to be buried in their “Sunday” best clothing or uniforms bearing the attributes indicating their social rank⁴Sarcophagi No 6, 11, 19, and 72..

The buried before the 1750s. A distinctive feature of the burial shirt was smartness and high quality. The shirt found in one of the coffins was made from thick linen cloth with primitive homemade lace cuffs⁵Sarcophagus No 1.. However, the shirts found in other burials were made of expensive fabric with plenty of ruffles, deeply cut neckline and cuffs decorated with lace. The shroud2 of Hieronim Florian Radziwiłł (1715-1760) was especially luxurious. He was dressed in a white linen shirt with wide sleeves with fine pleats gathered in the cuffs at the wrist. The shirt’s collar and cuffs were tied up with black silk ribbons. The deep-cut neckline and the cuffs were decorated with thin embroidered lace bands⁶Sarcophagus No 15.. It is likely that the deceased were usually buried dressed in a worn shirt because the seams of clothing were neatly stitched up, some patches were discovered. Women seem to have been buried also dressed in a shirt. Urszula Franciszka Wiśniowiecka Radziwiłł (1705-1753) was also buried dressed in a shirt with an elaborate cap tied under the chin⁷Sarcophagus No 17..

Two men were found dressed in a wide garment placed over their shirt made of luxurious thick silk fabric ornamented excessively with the motifs of flowers and plants⁸Sarcophagi No 2 and 5.. The garment6 of young Mikołaj Krzysztof Radziwiłł (1695-1715) was especially luxurious: it was made of a shiny fabric with mat salient floral ornaments, wide sleeves, deep-cut neckline and it was ruffled amply in the shoulders. His burial cap was also made of the same damask.

A garment that most likely belonged to Krzysztof Mikołaj Radziwiłł (1590-1607) who died in Bolonia⁹Sarcophagus No 5., found in the sarcophagus decorated with the pictures of angels, is the exception to the males dressed in a shirt9. In 1905, the remains were redressed; however, a well-preserved doublet with by far prolonged coattails at the front was found in the coffin. The elegant jacket was made of luxurious dark fabric with a rounded turn-down collar. Doublets of this type were fashionable at the end of the 16th century – in the first decade of the 17th century. It is an excellent example of work done by Western European tailors in the Spanish style. Following this style the silhouette of the doublet resembled the armour that tightly covered the whole body. Attempts were made to preserve a strict and graphic nature of the suit¹⁰Virginija Idzelytė, Kostiumo istorija, Vilnius: Vilniaus dailės akademijos leidykla, 2009, p. 171..

A low cylinder-shaped red velvet cap11 was found in the coffin supposedly attributed to Mikołaj Krzysztof Radziwiłł Sierotka (1549-1616)¹¹Sarcophagus No 1.. Two ribbons interwoven with gold were sewn crosswise on its flat top, and its broad sides were trimmed using an openwork rim with a plant motif made of gilded silver threads. This finding confirmed the doubts about the identity of the deceased. According to the art critic Aleksandra Aleksandravičiūtė, the galloons and trimmings of this kind emerged at the end of the 17th century, and gained in popularity only in the first half of the 18th century¹²Alexander Aleksandravičiūtė’s comment ad locum.. No equivalent to the headgear that was worn at that time has been found; however, the similarities and associations of its certain elements allow a tentative analogy with the prince’s hat to be drawn.

The most fascinating detail of the shroud of Urszula Franciszka Wiśniowiecka Radziwiłł was high-heeled sharp nose fine leather shoes14 covered with a yellow flower-patterned brocade fabric. The straps of the shoes were fastened with an oval drop-shaped buckle decorated with greenish crystals. In the 18th century, when extremely flared skirts came into fashion, high-heeled shoes helped to keep the proportions of a costume and rendered grace to the lady’s carriage and posture¹³ Rūta Guzevičiūtė, Europos kostiumo tūkstantmetis (X–XX a.), Vilnius: Vaga , 2001, p. 143..

The buried after the 1750s. In the long run Sarmatian clothing traditions became firmly established in the Commonwealth of the Two Nations. A typical costume of Eastern origin of a Sarmatian nobleman consisted of a kontusz (a type of outer garment), żupan (a long garment), a kontusz sash tied across the waist and knee flap cavalry boots. This distinctive outfit was perceived as an exclusive symbol of the nobility, it emphasized its privileges, attachment to the old values and former glory¹⁴Rūta Guzevičiūtė, Tarp Rytų ir Vakarų. XVI–XIX a. LDK bajorų kostiumo formavimosi aplinkybės ir pavidalai, Vilnius: Versus aureus, 2006, p. 28, 87.. A large part of the nobility faithfully followed this trend in clothing and in the 18th century it became the fashion of the diseased too.

Judging from the way the silk lining found in the coffin of Michał Kazimierz Radziwiłł Rybeńko (1702-1762)¹⁵Sarcophagus No 11. was cut (the whole garment did not survive), the prince was buried dressed in a kontusz. The trousers were an important part of the garment too. Their quality and the degree of wearing out showed the status and wealth of their owner. Michał Kazimierz was buried in fashionable trousers with a top flap – semi-long trousers, which were popular in Europe at that time. Such trousers emerged in around the 1720s. The trousers worn by Michał Kazimierz were made of luxurious red jacquard fabric with prints of impressive flowers. According to the fashion of that time, the trousers were tucked in high-top boots. Boots were also found in Radziwiłł’s coffin: high top boots with metal horseshoe plates nailed to the heels, in size 44.

The Great Hetman of Lithuania was buried together with the symbols befitting a statement of that rank. The octagonal star of the Order of the White Eagle adorned his chest. He was awarded this Order at the age of 25. The karabela (a type of a Polish sabre) and two wooden sheathes covered with black leather were placed on the left side of the prince. The karabelas19, with their handles stylized in the shape of an eagle head, became popular in the Commonwealth of Two Nations at the end of the 17th century.

In 1776, seeking to reduce the costs of male clothes worn at official events and gatherings, the Seimas laid down simpler requirements to the garments worn by the representatives of voivodes and powiats (districts). For example, the uniform jacket of the Voivode of Vilnius had to have a dark blue kontusz with a red lining and golden shoulder plates, and a deep red żupan¹⁶Marija Matušakaitė, Apranga XVI–XVIII a. Lietuvoje, Vilnius: Aidai, 2003, p. 279.. Hence, in the last quarter of the 18th century, alongside military uniforms worn in the army, the clothing of the noblemen occupying certain positions was also made uniform in the Commonwealth of Two Nations. Judging from the fragments of the suit found in the coffin¹⁷Sarcophagus No 19. of Karol Stanisław Radziwiłł Panie Kochanku21 (1734-1790), the prince was buried dressed namely in such a civil uniform jacket. The double-sided yellow-green kontusz sash used for girding had to be the adornment of the garment. Unfortunately, only a small fragment of it was found under the right shoulder of the deceased was found. The ends of the sash, where manufacturer’s signature usually is, were not found (there were signs indicating that they were cut off at some time). Nonetheless, most likely the discovered sash was woven in the Slutsk manufactory. The prince inherited the weaving manufactory from his father Michał Kazimierz. The long-riding boots with multilayer leather heels, which belonged to the suit, were also discovered.

During his life, the prince was awarded five orders: the Order of Saint Hubert (the Order of the Duchy of Bavaria), the Order of the White Eagle (the Commonwealth of the Two Nations), the Order of St. Andrew, the Order of St. Alexander Nevsky (both of the Russian Empire), and, right before his death, the Order of Black Eagle (the Kingdom of Prussia). Only the moire ribbon of the award of the Order of White Eagle, thrown over the right shoulder of the deceased, and fragments of a yellow moire ribbon of the Order of Black Eagle award were found in the coffin.

Rather decayed remains of two unidentified men were found in two coffins. It was clear that they were buried dressed in the garments characteristic of European fashion at the end of the 18th century¹⁸Sarcophagi No 6 and 72.. One of the men once was awarded the Order of Saint Hubert (the octagonal star of the Order was found at the left shoulder of the deceased). This is one of the oldest Orders in Europe established in the Duchy of Bavaria in the 15th century. More than one family member of the Radziwiłł family of Nesvizh was awarded this Order. Another man had a star of the Order of the White Eagle fastened to the left side of the chest and had a blue moire ribbon of this award girdled across his right shoulder. The star of the Order of Saint Anna was lying beside at the same shoulder in the coffin. This Order was s established by the Emperor of Russia Pavel I in 1797. State officials and military men were awarded this Order.

Vytautė Lukšėnienė